There is something magical about festivals in India. We have so many Gods and so many festivals, that it is impossible not to celebrate every day in festivity. But there are some which are more special. We have probably Three
Crore Gods (
mukkoti devaragulu), according some legends and a festival
celerabting each of them. One amongst these infinite+1
gaity is
Ugadi.
Ugadi is significant in
Andhra Pradesh and
Karnataka. It is special in Bangalore.
Convival in
Malleshwaram. Chaotic around 8
th Cross (8Cr)
Malleshwarm!
That small stretch of road and East Park Road (
EPk), perpendicular to 8Cr, is the place to be around, on the eve of
Ugadi. You can see the magic of
Malleshwaram on that day.
The 1/2 a mile of stretch of
EPK between 8Cr and 11
th Cross is the
ABODE's of the Gods. First comes the
Raghavendra Swamy Mutt, then followed by a deserted Park, then Ganesha Temple and Rama
Mandir (more of
Choultry),
Ubhaya Vedanta
Sabha (community hall) and then
Krishan(
ar) Temple (
Kovil) [for the Tamil speaking population]. These temples capture the essence of Hinduism. There would be no soul/sole in
Malleshwaram which has not visited these Lords. Each temple has exemplary characteristics of their own which I will try to delve into later. On the stretch of 8Cr from
Sampige Road to
Margosa Road lies
Kannika Parmeshwari Temple and ton of shops! This is the happening place.
Usually the eve of
Ugadi begins with cordoning of the 8Cr, on both entrances by the
Malleshwaram Traffic Police, by placing those grilled barricades. Those rusted, and partly painted with a small name plate with a caricature of Bangalore Traffic Police are perfectly placed on the road. There is enough place for the population and cycles to pass through yet block the two wheelers and cars. There are dedicated constables, with their White Shirt and Khaki pants, standing at the 8Cr and
Sampigae Road, furiously waving their hands signalling the vehicles to move on. Few glances and a simple rationalization will generate a thought, it is such a waste of energy to constantly cycle his arms. The commuters will automatically realise that they cannot take a left turn onto 8Cr and have to move on, but he does not stop. He waves furiously as the time goes by - yet the traffic continuous to slow down even more! Typical. His inner feelings are probably where is the end of the day and when will I go home - but he has a long way to go, it is just 4.00pm and the crowd is picking up!
To add to this fancy, there will be a Asst Sub Inspector with his siren attached moped parked at the corner. Wearing a white shirt with a star on his shirts flap jack, he will have a semi-dirty cap on with the
Karnataka State Police (
KSP) trinket fixed. He will have a black, heavy
Walkie Talkie, which will come to life with a crackling sound followed by '
Charile calling Mike -
Yelli iddri neevu'. He stands there and watches the fun - of jammed traffic and blaring horns and the heavy breaks of the
omni-flowing
KSRTC and
BMTC buses. The air is full of carbon emission, yet he breathes normally without a twitch of his
primmed moustache. Picturesque. Regularly there will be a high ranked police official (Inspector,
DSP or SP) passing by in their Jeep or siren fitted (Pilot-light or top-light) cars. Quick in glance, as a hawk, the constable clicks his heels, and the relaxing
ASI scurries off his moped's seat and whips his arm to his temple, with his palms facing outward, saluting (salaam). At this moment the Constable goes berserk in waving his arms - also begins to yell at a few drivers: Hey auto move!, lo Ambassador accelerator
kodo,
ley Bajaj scooter
jargo! At that instant humans are addressed by their vehicles! As soon as the official passes, sanity returns and the
ASI relaxes.
During all this time you will notice that there are some non-disciplined, law breaking, ever pestering Auto's parked on the sides of the roads. They are so curiously parked, just far enough of the
ASI and the intersection. These guys are so smart, that they know not to park near to the police official yet not far enough from the 8Cr intersection otherwise they will loose a potential commuter coming out and looking for a ride. Oh those Auto guys! Can't live,
with or without them. The
ASI regularly gets up from his bike and these guys sense a verbal berate is about to come their way; start (crackle) the auto to life and accelerate. Move just enough that will discourage the
ASI to not come further but (again) not much further than their initial point of rest. The Hound and Rabbit are at play. Rarely if the
ASI catches one auto guy they have ready answers;
'Saar,
giraaki ilitha iddarae,
avaru duddu kotta thaksna hortae' (Sir, the commuter is alighting, and I will leave once I get the payment)
'Saar,
madamuu hattira chillarae illa,
nimma hattira idya' (Sir, Madam does not have loose bills, do you?)
'Saar,
ivattu ondae divasa girakigalu sigodu,
swalpa jasti collection
aguthae,
bittubidi' (Sir, this is the only day when commuters are more, will help my earnings, please leave me)
They one amongst the myriad actors on that eve!
Now moving up 8
th Cross you will come across so many shopping places filled with '
janata' (people). There is another special place, yes, '
Janatha Hotel'. That place prepares a sublime
masala dosa; coupled with a coffee in the smallest of small steel cups acts as a great elixir on any day. That hotel is always crowded, so crowded that on any table if you see 4 people sitting, you might think they are friends - but they are not! Each individual is on his own, eating away at his/her dish. No time to loose, eat and leave. I have had the opportunity to eat so many
dosa's here that I still savor the smell of the fresh dough, baked, smeared in a splash of unhealthy oil, tanned to perfection - dark on the outer rim to golden in color towards the center. When the
dosa is viewed longitudinally there in its stomach (hollow center) is the yellow '
batatae irulli palya' (potato onion curry) effusing its own distinct smell! Drip Drip Drip goes my mouth even now! Accompanied with it, in an even smaller bowl is coconut chutney! Full of coconut and splash of mint, seasoned with sputtered mustard seeds, this rich gravy is ideal. One small tear of the piping hot
dosa, small pick of the curry and a swooning dip in the chutney - next destination is the mouth; few chews and then the all accomplishing swallow! YES! My friends it is
Masala Dosa for you! After this if you have cup of coffee, which burns your tongue and leaves your breath smelling of
caffine - you have breached heaven. (Try to pop in a bubble gum after some time please!)
So with your stomach at peace, you can shop at peace. Go to Shiv
Shakti Oils for your ghee to prepare the DISH next day. You know for what dish? Yes you do my friend -
obbattu /
holigae. (Open the second link with IE, and have Kannada fonts installed). Buy banana leaves for its preparation, from one of the street vendors. Go to
Veenus or Mummy-Daddy or
Bhagwan Stores for all your clothes. You could go to
Bata Stores (on
Sampigae Road) for your foot-ware.
Asha sweet Center (with all the
cholestrol - but who cares) for your ready made sweets,
khova,
kaju barfi,
badam barfi,
pista roll,
jahangeer,
jelabi,
bannae murku & mixture. T.D.Shah stores for bargains on clothes for your kids. For your new vessels go to the Prestige
TTk stores next to
Janatha Hotel. Shop till you drop.
As you move further up 8Cr you will get
EPk, which we will travel into a later. At the intersection of
EPk and 8Cr you will see
Mitra Bazaar where you can again get your groceries. Once I went to this store, and I was mixed up with the weights of
cardamom which my mom asked me get. She had given me around 30 Rs, yes it was cheap those days. I happily went to the owner and said, give me 100
gms of '
yelakki' (cardamom). His eyes popped out and said, 100! I was wondering whats the fuss! He continued, 100
gms is around 890 Rs. My mouth popped out and I realised my folly. And he smiled to me and said 'Didn't you want 10
gms'. Saving grace, I grimaced and nodded in unison. He then sitting on his cashier's desk, yelled at someone to fulfill my request, who relayed it further and the sound waves moved all around finally some junior-most employee proceeded for execution, rather than transfer of order-by-mouth. When I was lost in my thoughts wondering what a fool I had made of myself, a soiled and strong
jaggery smelling hand tapped on my supple shoulders and handed me a packet. I paid and fled towards home. Moral of the story my friends, never get your measure wrong when you mom OR YOUR WIFE asks for something. I also bought groceries from Ganesha Provisions down at
Sampigae road. The same pot belly (not because of beer) owner, who speaks in
telegu-
kannada still sits.
Opposite to
Mitra Bazaar is another stop-shop for a quick bite.
Ramananda Stores. You will get almost all (unhealthy) stuff. Eat to your delight. Popcorn,
kulfi,
masala bread, puff's to
softee icreams.
It is said the most sensual dress for a 'woman' is a
saree. It has the grace and yet effuses the sensuality of any woman. To bathe yourself in the myriad colors of the
saree, head to
Girija Silks. I have seen so many women packed in that semi-basement store, that I shake my head in wonder. I have always noticed that a large group of women can exist in peace and harmony, i.e. not squabbling with each other, only in 2 places. One in a Wedding ceremony hall (where they are admiring each others
sarees) and the other in a
saree store. :)
There are so many shops that I have difficulty in listing them. However, I would like to mention one special small store which is a tribute to ownership. Adjunct to
Mitra Bazaar, on
EPk, just before
Raghavendra Mutt, is a 10
ft x 10ft shop; name - Expert Darners. This is one shop which has been there for sort of an age, as I know. That simple shop has stitched/darned so many clothes of mine, which I have torn during rough play, that I have lost count of it. As far as I know, and I believe, the shop is owned by a follower of Islam. It is highly noteworthy that this shop exists in peace and is prosperous in a HIGHLY Hindu neighborhood. It is such an appreciable fact of Secular India. Next time when you travel on
EPk, notice that store!
Added to this concrete and immovable jungle of stores is the lively, portable, profitable stores; footpath vendors. On this day they are all over selling vegetables and other plant essentials in every nook and corner of the street. These are the vendors which bring LIFE into
Malleshwaram on this day. They offer such a variety of choices that it really enthuses a shopper to move about the busy area and yet feel the pleasure of shopping. I guess the general floating population of
Malleshwaram is around 5K to 7K people on a regular working or a non-special day. But on the eve of
Ugadi, the number easily breaches 50K! All packed in two small streets, 8Cr and
EPk.
I had quipped before, about the closure of the entrance to 8Cr on both ends, the main reason being these vendors setup their make shift rug-tug shops on the road itself. It is a sight to behold, from one very advantageous position. Go right to the top of 8Cr at the intersection of it with
Sampigae Road. Stand right in the center, between the police barricades and look down on 8Cr. You will have a majestic view, and probably will appreciate the festival even more! The harmony of the people, all moving around for one simple goal, to be prepared with all ingredients and accessories to celebrate the New Year (
Ugadi) tomorrow. It is a harmony.
You will find vendors ranging from street urchins to seasoned traders. A small boy, with an off-white partly dirty shirt with stains and brown shorts: hair jet black and sprayed all over, been a while since he had his hair trimmed: teeth slightly brown: bright black eyes gazing from person to person, hoping to catch a prospective customer's eye: clutching to his pocket with his left hand where he probably has his current earnings: trying to make quick money, would have earlier in the day jumped into resident's houses around
Malleshwaram, climbed the mango tree and then broken off branches and leaves, collected them and laid it over a knapsack made of jute ('
goni-
cheela'). If you ask him, '
yeshtappa" (how much), out comes the sharp answer in a squeaky voice (which only a child can have), '
iidu rupaigae yeradu gonae' (5 Rupees for 2 bunches). The buyer expresses shock on his/her face and then asks;
Kododu helu (tell me a fair rate). 'Sari
nalku rupayigae togoli' (
Ok take for 4 Rupees). '
Noodu,
yeradu rupayigae kodu,
illandrae beda' (Give for 2 else I don't want). After a short haggle the boy reluctantly gives in, and you will have a bargain, whilst he has nearly hundred percent profit :). Who told you that kids need education to turnover of 100% in a business.
All over 8Cr and
EPk you will find the fresh but sanitizing smell of
neem leaves ('
bevu'). The mix of '
bevu' and '
bella' (
jaggery), signifies that life is bitter-sweet and we have to taste them both.
Infact in
Malgudi Days by R.K.Narayan, you can watch in an episode when
Jaganna, the father, threatens to feed his son Mali, with '
neem' juice, if Mali does not come inside the house when it is raining. In several other episodes,
Jaganna mentions the therapeutic value of using
neem sticks in lieu toothbrush and toothpastes. It is because we have ignored
Jaganna's advice that Colgate and Close-
up's are raking in huge profits :). Economy!
Now on
EPk the Lord's reside. You will find every major God on this street. Each temple is a site of sanctity and peace. First
Raghavendra Mutt. It is a very simple temple, very easy to see the lord! Believe me it is easy. There is not much of aesthetics around or on the temple. Just a '
Brindavan' and a wide '
dwaar' (door) for everybody to view. Many people just stroll in the evening (on regular days) and sit around on the steps discussing about the happenings of their lives. What they cooked, their grandchild's antics, wife's hurting words, son's requests, father's advice, mother's solicitude, daughter-in-law's sarcasm. This temple is a healer. It is the best place to catharsis your soul either to the lord or to your friend. I have felt immense solace during my days of despair.
Next in line is the Ganesha temple. It is a little bit difficult to see the lord here :). You have to climb a flight of stairs, but it is worth it. This is a lively temple. Lots of people come here and go. Fleeting feet. The temple has quite some architecture. The
Navagrah ('9 Planets') temple has a nice carvings on the top. Usually Ganesha, the main deity, is decorated in a colorful way. From the top of the temple, if you look North, you will get a good glimpse of the
EPk and 8Cr and several roof-tops. One philosophical point of note is that, inside the temple one has to climb through a gradient to move from
EPk to West Park Road; symbolizing that we have to climb through our life from birth (Sunrise) to death (Sunset ). Today on the eve of
Ugadi, you will see a lot of families offering prayers and seeking blessings. Notice how several kids, some toddlers too with their hand held by their mothers, find it exciting to climb their stairs on their own. You can see the determination, feel their heavy breath after running up a few stairs. Quickly they change their approach, learning that running up is not going to help, they start to tackle one step at a time. They plant one foot and then drag their other foot to the same stair, then the tackle the next step. We as kids learn so quickly so many trades and trends of life. Then there are the youths who request the lord, to give them all the knowledge and the presence of mind to 'pass' their ensuing exams. Gathering together all their reverence, they pray for endurance, especially those facing their board exams (
ICSE,
CBSE,
SSLC,
PUC,
ISC). Their parents would have drilled into them, that there is no other exam which is more important than this one! Then there are the graduated youths who are, as I think in 'heat'. Those who have just started to feel the strange heart beat when a beautiful girl passes by or when they saw their handsome class-mate in college. They come to Ganesha to pour their heart out and say 'Ganesha, if (s)he comes to become my life partner, I will break 21 coconuts for you'. Love is such an innocent, blinding, blustering killer! Towing a lover is a the newly married couple. They can barely take their eyes of each other, yet they 'act' of concentrating while facing the lord! :). I am sure their thoughts and prayers are first toward their spouses, thanking Him for giving such an understand spouse! Wait for a couple of years, then you will see the irreconcilable differences pop up! :). They too are the patrons of the lord today. Also seen are the middle aged couples with their kids and followed by the old couples who are in the dusk of their lifetime. All in all, Ganesha temple is the most lively temple - whose followers span across the spectrum of life. No wonder Ganesha is a popular one!
Moving on is the Krishna(r) temple. Now
Malleshwaram is a hub of Brahmanism. Bangalore
Brahmins (a la
Boston Brahmins). Amongst these
Brahmins are the
subsect of
Iyers and
Iyengars. As a side thought, an
Iyer and
Iyengar generally can't stand each other in a room, but they manage it out at the temple. Though the principal deities of these two sects vary, however in generality they accept Vishnu as the lord; with Krishna being the most popular avatar. So there is a confluence of
Iyer and
Iyengar in this temple! This is a very calm temple. Peace all around. It has a huge '
prakara' (foyer). The traditions are evident in this temple. No short cuts during prayer's. Very orthodox. Systematic and clerical in ceremonies. The actual idol of Krishna in the
garbha gudi (inner temple) is resplendent. Carved in black stone (marble?) is fiery, under the traditionally lit earthen lamps (wick and oil); Generally the incandescent/
fluorscent lights are not switched on. The burning brightness is a sight to imbibe. Inside the
garbha gudi, the air is rich with fresh
tulsi, marigold,
sampigae mixed with tingling
ayurvedic '
sambrani' (herbs of special kind). This potent mix of air can clear
anyone's throat better than
vicks-
vaporub! The aroma in the temple invokes the essence of piety. I always loved this temple. In the arena you will see few people, mostly lost in their thoughts. Most women reciting the
stotra's in a tone of grace. Believe me, it is very difficult to enunciate clearly the
tounge twisting
stotra's in pure
sanskrit. Every morning/evening the women chant these lengthy
ashtakams in a tone of divinity. You will see Mr
Sankaran, meeting Mr
Raghavan and then hear them discussing about their '
maamis' (women) in the Tamil (all interlaced with Kannada).
So that is about the temples. Now the important feature of the
EPk is the evergreen market place adjacent to the Ganesha temple. You will always find activity here. '
Nimbae hannu yeradu rupayigae muuru' (Lime, 3 for 2 Rs). Move up and down market to get the best deals and the variety of vegetables. If you observe carefully, there is 8Cr and then there is 10Cr. Where is the 9Cr? The missing 9Cr is the market. In the old days, when we did not have much of traffic the Bangalore
Mahanagar Palike (
Muncipality), did not lay a road on 9Cr. This gave an opportunity for the small time vendors to setup up their stalls. And ever since, 9Cr disappeared. Recently when BMP tried to take back the land, and moved in with destroyers and bulldozers with the police force, the vendors responded by climbing upon the bulldozers and sitting on them all day! By mid-afternoon (the usually incompetent) BMP gave up and still the market lives on.
Also you will see a long time standing structure, the milk booth of Karnataka Milk Factory. When it was introduced, around 1990, it was a instant hit. More people bought milk from this store for one reason, not the A grade milk, but the automatic milk vending booth. If you paid the money to the Cashier, he will give you some magic tokens. Take your vessel and place it in the slot and then position it such that the mouth is right below the nozzle and then insert the coins in the slot. Magic, the milk starts to pour. Oh in those days, this was the first automatic m/c I had seen. Oh it was so COOL! Once the milk started to pour, your heart would race fearing your vessel is short of capacity to hold all the milk. All this will be put to rest, the milk stops to flow, as magically as it started. After a few months, I was disappointed with the KMF, because no longer was the milk dispensed automatically; the attendent took the vessel inside and then using a measure poured the milk into your vessel. :(. The magic was gone.
As the eve ends, all the commotion subsides and 8Cr and EPk return towards normalcy. There is a lot garbage (basically chaff of the vegetables, banana leaves etc) lying around which would be cleared in the morning by our faithful BMP. The eve then gives away itself to the big day, Ugadi.
On this day your family will wake up early, torna katti (mango tree leaves are strung on the door), perpare for and have an oiled bath (an aged and by-gone tradition), wear new clothes then offer prayers and offer the cooked food to the Gods and then have a hearty meal. The menu usually has the Mango Chitranna (mango colored rice), Tovvae (cooked dal), Obbattu, Rice, Obbattu Saaru (Rasam made out of remenants of Obbattu) and seasoned Curd-rice. It is one sumptuous meal. You greet others with 'Bevu Bella thindu sukhavagi iri' (Eat Neem and Jaggery paste, and enjoy your life).
Yes Ugadi is a festival to enjoy and Malleshwaram enlightens it even more!
Labels: 8th Cross, Malleshwaram, Ugadi
